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Comparisons · Two ways of cooking

Grilling or Indirect roasting

The first technique decision in any cook, and the one that most often goes wrong: it is settled by the thickness of what you are cooking rather than by preference.

What each one is

Grilling

Fast cooking over direct heat. What most of the world means by barbecuing, and what American barbecue specifically does not mean — a terminology collision worth knowing about before reading any recipe.

Indirect roasting

Cooking with the lid down and the fire to one side, turning the barbecue into an oven that happens to smell of woodsmoke. The default for anything large.

What actually differs

Differences between Grilling and Indirect roasting
AspectGrillingIndirect roasting
The fire it needs

This is the difference. Everything else about the two techniques follows from where the fire is relative to the food.

Direct heatIndirect heat
What it suitsThin cuts that cook through before the surface burns; Anything wanting a hard surface charWhole birds; Joints and thick cuts; Anything where the centre has a long way to travel
What it does not suit

The more useful half of the comparison, and the half most published guidance leaves out.

Anything thicker than roughly 4 cm; Collagen-rich cuts, which need time rather than heatThin cuts, which will dry before they colour
Cookers that can do it7 of the 11 modelled10 of the 11 modelled

Which one, for what

Conditions rather than a verdict. Each line below is a thing one of them can do that the other cannot, or does without arrangement where the other needs it — taken from the what each cooker is documented as doing, rather than from a preference.

Grilling, if:

  • Thin cuts that cook through before the surface burns.
  • Anything wanting a hard surface char.

Indirect roasting, if:

  • Whole birds.
  • Joints and thick cuts.
  • Anything where the centre has a long way to travel.

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